Catching Speckled Trout and Redfish with Fishing Guide, Capt. Paul Marcaccio, on Galveston Bay.

Capt. Paul aims to provide each and every client with the trip and experience of a lifetime.

Friday, November 29, 2013

Winter Fishing

Winter Fishing is hard work Most of the fishermen we know have put up their rods and taken up rifles and shotguns, at least temporarily. From December through mid-March, this period offers trout that feed very much like piggy perch or hardheads. The cold weather often makes the trout very sluggish. Since the body temperature of a trout is that of the water in which it lives, the cold slows the metabolism of the fish. Trout fishing is supposed to be fun, but only for about nine months of the year. With winter fishing comes more work than fun. All the time you are suffering through the cold day. It is apparent that there are fewer fishermen in the bay and you should not have the problems encountered during the summer months. Needless to say, if one endures low temperatures and sluggish fish that nibble, you can enjoy great action during these frigid months. Passage of these northers are sometimes frequent and the more violent the front, the poorer the fishing afterwards. These fronts cause the bay system to turn chocolate milk and can lower the water level. I have seen a two or three foot drop in the water level after one of these fronts passes Galveston Bay, leaving a lot of good fishing areas exposed as mud or shell reefs. This then will force the trout to move to deep holes and the channels. Depending on whom you ask it takes sometimes three to four days for the return of normal tide levels and clear water. Once the front passes, a fisherman can experience several days of good fishing. Most often, the trout are suspended in water that is six to nine feet deep. Work areas like oil and gas platforms, shell or oyster reefs. If you know a well pad has been productive in the past, anchor up and work it for 15 to 30 minutes. Then you might want to try drifting certain oyster reefs and return later to the wells when the alternate tide starts moving again. Remember that the fish will be deep, so work the bait on the bottom. Birds (working gulls) are not usually found due to shrimp migration in the fall. Occasionally, you may find some trout along the shoreline adjacent to deep structure. Trout will feed during these periods and prior to frontal passages, thinking they need to store up food before the next winter blast of cold air arrives. The shortage of live bait during the winter keeps many fishermen at home. Some don’t know how to fish lures, or they dislike using them. When live bait is available, use it under a popping cork about four to seven feet deep from the cork to the hook. You also may free shrimp or use a slip weight depending on the bottom you are fishing. Also, the use of live finger mullet or mudfish is good when live shrimp are not found. The above mentioned should be hooked at the top dorsal fin or the tail and hooked on the bottom. Make long casts and when the bait hits the water, let out enough line to drop the bait where you first hit the water. This will keep the bait from coming back to you because of the current. The method is to retrieve slowly and pause until the bait is back at the boat. Each time you cast, move your location and cover as much water as possible. The use of artificial baits during the winter will test your patience. This is not the time for the novice angler to use these baits without some prior experience. Remember that proper presentation is important. Lifting the rod tip as you retrieve is important, as you will have to put the bait within a few feet of the trout. Be sure and cover as much water as possible as you drift or anchor the boat. Another popular winter fishing trout lure is bottom-bumping plugs with two sets of hooks. The extra hook gives the fisherman the edge. Keep this in mind while wading in the winter. Trout have a much heavier than usual coating of protective slime. Be sure to carry a landing net. If you think these fish are slippery in the summer, try grabbing one in the dead of winter when your fingers are numb. The clothing you wear is also important. Be sure and layer the clothes you select, so in the sun should come out, you will be able to remove a layer at a time as necessary. As always, have fun and enjoy the outdoors. See ya’ll on Galveston Bay. Capt. Paul Marcaccio USCG & TP&W License

Thursday, November 7, 2013

Flounder Fishin' 101

Flounder Fishing – for Everyone Successful flounder fishing is not for everyone. If you simply cast out the bait and wait, you may catch a flounder or two, but in general you’re in for a disappointment and frustration. Successful hook and line flounder fishing rates right at the head of the class. If you can successfully catch flounder on hook and line, you have bragging rights and should consider yourself an expert. This writer can give a lot of tips on catching flounder, but when it comes to actually setting the hook in the mouth of a flatfish, it all boils down to two items: “Concentration and Experience”! “It seems everyone else can catch flounder except me.” I hear that so often this time of year, when the flounder make their migratory move to the Gulf. First off, the flounder has no swim bladder. This simply means the fish goes through life swimming or lying on or near the bottom. They are unable to suspend themselves motionless at any depth. Furthermore, it doesn’t have the fin structure nor body shape for fast swimming. It tends to move in short darts that appear to be fast, because when flounder move they raise a lot of silt off the bottom. The fish normally feed from ambush, lying partially hidden on the bottom until food matter moves or drifts close by. The fish quickly rises off the bottom, grabs the food and sinks right back to the bottom. This is where your experience comes into play. Most fish tend to engulf the bait. The flounder instead, hold it tightly with its teeth for a few seconds before ingesting. Some marine biologist says the fish does this to kill the bait before taking it deep into its mouth. If you try to set the hook the instant you feel a pick-up. Odds are excellent you’ll tear the hook out of the bait and give the flounder a free meal. Instead, wait approximately ten (10) seconds before striking or setting the hook. This writer prefers to palm my reel, letting the line run lightly between my thumb and forefinger. You would be surprised at what the flounder telegraphs up the taunt line. You can feel the fish working the bait, and you can feel when the fish takes the bait deep into its mouth. That’s the moment of truth to strike and set the hook. Experience this a few times and you will never forget it……… Since flounder normally feed on matter that drifts close by, successful flounder fishermen and women are those who fish every foot of the bottom within casting range. Do this by inching the bait along the bottom. When you feel the line taunt, treat it as if a flounder has grabbed the bait and not as if the hook fouled a snag. Wait the magic ten (10) seconds before setting the hook. This tackle can be modified to be used with a float in wading depth. Rig the float to hold the bait just a few inches above the bottom. Cast up current and allow the current to carry along the float so a lot of bottom can be covered. When a flounder takes the bait, the float will stop moving and simply lean over in the current. Wait the magical ten (10) seconds, and then set the hook. If the float starts moving against the current, you can bet money that the infamous blue crab has grabbed the bait and moved off with it. There are a number of good terminal rigs for flounder. I prefer a slip sinker attached to the line followed by a swivel, then 18 to 24 inches of leader line (20 to 30 lbs.) followed by a wide gap (circle hook) either #2 or #3. The best bait is either live mud minnows or finger mullet. When the bay temperature cools down less than 70 degrees. Live shrimp will also work as well. The most effective artificial lure is any soft plastic bait. Bass assassin, shrimp tail, or shad tails. Use either 1/8 to ¼ oz. lead head. I prefer the Norton lazer screw on hooks or the new Bass Assassin screw on as well. Work the bait right on the bottom with your yo-yo effect on lifting and dropping the rod tip. I prefer the new All-Pro titanium rod made by Fishing Tackle Unlimited in either 6-1/2’ or 7’. It’s called the GREEN ROD………………….. Hopefully, these tips give you a leg up on your next successful flounder trip. Good luck and good fishing. See y’all outdoors on Galveston Bay. Capt. Paul Marcaccio